Sunday, July 8, 2012

How to survive a Mafia hit

How to Survive a Mafia Hit

Some people write self help books to get rich, I’m not in it for the money and I don’t have the energy to write a book but I did wright this little blurb of lies because I was board. - Please keep in mind I am not an actual expert, in a real life situation these are most likely things that no thinking human being would do.

If you are reading this you are a very lucky person indeed, maybe you were tipped off or possibly you were even lucky enough to survive an attack. However what is in the past is not important what really matters is that if the Mafia missed once they will not miss again. So as an expert on all matters, I have written this handy set of instructions on how to avoid being killed or tortured by the Mafia.

1) Hide. Trust me if you can hide from the Mafia it is definitely the best way to go I recommend moving to a secret house deep in a California desert. Unless you have instructions from- er Mr. Smith against hiding, it is definitely the way to go.

2) Curl up into a ball, while effective this method is only to be executed with great skill.What not to do; when the hit man sits on the bar stool next to you, you drop down and curl up into a ball protecting you’re neck and other valuable organs. The proper way; if you know that the hit man is coming in the next few hours, use a razor blade to make a small incision in the back of you’re sofa or Lazy Boy®, curl up inside the particular furnishing then have a friend push it back against the wall. Please note: If this is what you are planning it may be wise to bring food and water.

3) Pretend to be Hermit the Frog, (only for amphibian creatures) according to film and television lure a certain famous show business frog once had an older brother who lived a secret live of crime while being a shame they still loved him. Tragically, Hermit’s dangerous, yet low profile life of crime was, eventually ended by officer Joe Burnett (the man who killed Edward Capehard O’Kelly, the man who had killed Robert Ford who was famous for killing Jessie James). This saddened the Frog family and eventually Kermit (hearing about the older brother he never knew) decided to do something, something that would both keep his brother in their hearts while bettering the world. He took his dead brother’s name and created a series of fake IDs and papers which he gave to those who had been wrongfully accused of crimes with there new names these frogs were able to get across the border to and away from the government. You too can do this with a little bit of know how, it’s definitely challenging but if it means living without fear then it’s worth it.

4)Those are three things you can do now for some things, which you should only do if you want to die.
Go to prison: lots of people think this will get them out of harms way, it won’t. Most mafia establishments have more then one on the inside and you will end up dead anyway.

Curl up into a ball (see step number 2 for proper technique)Go ‘Rambo’ on them: this does not work.

Cry: You are the end of you’re rope there is nothing else you can do, it’s probably better to go quietly then go out kicking and screaming.


How to change your own oil....

Aside from saving you money and also making sure the job is done right, changing your oil yourself is a great way to get the one on one time every guy should get with his vehicle's undercarriage......

How to Change the Oil in Your Car

Car oil that has not been changed for 10,000 miles. Car oil that has not been changed for 10,000 miles.
Regularly changing your car's engine oil and filter is one of the most important things you can do to keep your car running well. Over time your oil breaks down and your filter becomes clogged with contaminants. Depending upon your driving habits and type of vehicle, this may take as few as 3 months or 3,000 miles, or be as long as 20,000 miles or 24 months (consult your owner's manual for service intervals). Fortunately, changing your oil is both easy and inexpensive. This will help you to learn how.

An oil pan and socket wrench. Ensure the socket is a 6 point socket to reduce damaging the plug.
An oil pan and socket wrench. Ensure the socket is a 6 point socket to reduce damaging the plug.
Gather all the necessary supplies and equipment. Under your car with all the oil out is not the time to discover what is missing. It will help to have everything close at hand. (Caution: take great care when working with a hot engine.)

The oil drain plug.
The oil drain plug.
Before draining out the old oil, you may want to open the hood of the car and open the oil filler cap on the top of the engine. This will help the oil drain easier because air can flow in as the crankcase drains. Locate the drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan. It is normally towards the back of the engine. As the oil comes out of the pan at an angle, it can be tricky to catch, and may land on the ground. If this includes your driveway, you will want some newspaper or a drop cloth to catch it, or you risk an oil stain on your driveway or garage.
Removing the drain plug gasket.
Removing the drain plug gasket.
Loosen the plug counter-clockwise using the proper sized socket (or wrench). The fit is especially important if the bolt is tight, which it shouldn't be. If you need more leverage, an extension such as a pipe segment on your ratchet handle can help. If this type of "breaker-bar" arrangement is required it was way too tight. You should also remove and replace the circular paper (or felt) drain plug gasket, but a metal washer can be re-used if in good condition. Be careful not to drop the plug in the oil, it's a messy job trying to find the plug in the black stuff.
  • If you do drop it in the pan, you can easily find it with a magnet. Ideally, use the type that is at the end of an expandable rod.
  • Another easy way to "save" the drain plug is to use a funnel with a bit of screening in it. Catch the plug as it falls out. You can then pull the funnel out of the way of the stream and set it to one side.
The oil filler cap.
The oil filler cap.
Some vehicles (such as BMW, Mercedes, newer Volvos, etc) may have a filter element or cartridge as opposed to the simpler spin-on type. They require you to open the cap of a built-in resevoir and lift out the filter element itself.
Remove the filter, using a filter socket or filter wrench if necessary.
Remove the filter, using a filter socket or filter wrench if necessary.
Tip the filter into your pan to drain the contents.
Tip the filter into your pan to drain the contents.
Locate the filter assembly. This can be a tough part. Filters are not put in a standard position, and they can be on the front, back or side of engines. Look at the filter you purchased to replace the old one and look for something similar. Once you have located it, remove it from the engine. This can be tough, and often seems too hard. Once you get a good grip slow and steady twisting can sometimes get it to begin to spin. If you can't get it off by hand, use an oil filter wrench. Keep trying. It will eventually come off. There will be oil in the filter, so be careful not to spill it and have a pan underneath to catch the drips.
  • When removing the oil filter, make sure that the rubber gasket ring comes off with the filter. If you don't and it sticks to the car, the new filter won't seal properly and will leak.
  • Lubricate the gasket on the new filter with new oil.
    Lubricate the gasket on the new filter with new oil.
    When installing the new filter, remove all packaging, then dip the tip of your finger in the new oil and smear it on the gasket ring of the new filter. If you use the old oil, it may contain buildup that will wear away between the gasket and the car and eventually become a leak.
  • You might pour some oil into the filter prior to installing it. This can reduce the amount of time your car takes to regain proper oil pressure. If your filter is mounted vertically, you may be able to fill it almost to the top. If mounted at an angle then a little oil will spill just prior to spinning the filter on but that will not amount to much. Garages don't tend to pre-fill filters because it takes time, and for them time is money.
Replace the drain plug.
Replace the drain plug.
Replace the drain plug on the oil pan. Don't forget to install a replacement gasket or washer. Start threading it with your fingers so as not to cross the threads, and it should be snug, but no need to be super-tight.
This would be a good time to wipe any debris or buildup off the surface where the gasket will seat.
This would be a good time to wipe any debris or buildup off the surface where the gasket will seat.
Carefully screw on the new, lubricated filter, being careful to not cross the threads. With the paper cartridge filters, they will always come with at least one o-ring, sometimes as many as four different ones. Make sure to replace all of them to ensure that they will not leak. The filter will generally say how tight to tighten it. Go until the gasket touches, then tighten however far it says it should be. This is usually 2/3 or 1/4 of a turn after the gasket touches but could be more. Read the specifications on the filter or box it came in. Using a filter wrench can make it easier to install per specs if the filter is in a difficult to reach location.
A funnel will help.
A funnel will help.
Add new oil to the car at the fill hole. The amount you need is in the owner's manual, usually listed under "capacities". Don't always rely on the dipstick for an accurate measurement; it can be off, especially if the engine has just been run (the stick will read low because there is still oil in the galleries). If you want to check the stick accurately, just check it first thing in the morning, parked on a level surface, when it's cold and settled.
  • If you hold the bottle with the spout on top, as shown, it will pour more smoothly, without bubbling.
Replace the fill cap, check around for tools, and close the hood.
Start the engine, watching to be sure the oil pressure light goes off after start-up, and be sure to look under the car while the engine is running (put car in park or neutral with the parking brake on) to check for any drips. If the filter and drain plug aren't tight, they may leak slowly. Run the engine for a minute or so.


  • Iridescence in an engine oil spill
    Iridescence in an engine oil spill
    Recycle your oil, or store it if you have to. Dumping it on the ground is illegal. Your local auto store or garage will take your used oil for free, in most cases. Many of them heat their garages with waste oil so they are happy to get it.
  • Instead of lifting the car, you can park over a trench or ditch or with two wheels up on a curb. Be sure to take every safety precaution while doing this (use the emergency brake, block the wheels, make sure the tires are completely stable on the ground, etc.).
  • It is unsafe to work on a car that is still on a jack. Instead, use jack stands (never cinder blocks) and do the whole thing on a level concrete surface.
  • Be careful not to burn yourself! Your engine, the used oil inside it, and other parts of the car can stay hot enough to burn you for a long time after you turn the ignition off.
  • Refer to your owner's manual for jack/lift instructions; improper jack placement can damage your car badly.
  • Recommended reading.
    Recommended reading.
    This how-to is not meant for all cars, and certainly shouldn't be your only source of information. Always consult your owner's manual for manufacturer's recommendations when determining your maintenance schedule.
  • Don't get the oil inlet confused with the transmission fluid inlet. You can ruin your transmission if you put oil in it.
  • If you don't use the correct wrench on the drain plug bolt you run the risk of "rounding it off" (destroying the head of the bolt).
  • Do NOT over or under-tighten the new filter. Always tighten it to the manufacturer's specs either by hand or with a cap tool.
  • Don't overfill; that can cause foaming or spills.
  • Be careful with additives. Many of these products are more marketing than substance, and some can void your warranty or harm your vehicle. Check with the service people at your dealership first.
  • Check with your owner's manual on selecting the correct weight (0W-40, 10W-30 etc) and type of oil (mineral, synthetic). Many high performance vehicles (especially those with turbochargers) require synthetic oil of a specified weight. Running mineral oil or the wrong weight may cause damage.

Things You'll Need

  • Oil (check your owner's manual for specific weight and quantity needed). Most cars use 4-6 litres. Also, make sure you use oil that meets the API performance rating for your vehicle. Most vehicles made since 2004 require rating "SM", which is better than the oil that was available when older cars were made. Always use the newest and latest spec oil available.
  • Socket wrench (for European or Japanese cars you will likely need a metric set).
  • Oil filter (contact your local auto parts store for specific model of filter). Expensive ones do not clean oil any better. The ones that have a grippy coating are easier to install and tighten.
  • Oil filter wrench. There are different size oil wrenches available depending on the diameter of the filter. The expensive one that is double articulated is the surest one to use.
  • A way to get your car off the ground (ramps or a jack & jack stands work best).  
  • NEVER get underneath a car supported only by a jack! 
  • This is extremely risky. Always use a jack stand. 2 ton jack stands tend to run between $20-$25 at your local auto store.
  • Something to catch the used oil in, and a funnel and sturdy gallon jugs to transport it.
  • Oil rags or paper towel.
  • Some vehicles require you to remove top or bottom panels, which might require additional tools.


How to unhook her bra....

How To Undo Her Bra With One Hand

410396 user ratings

Defeat the bra enemy in one easy motion. Always a nervous encounter for males around the globe, but with VideoJug's assistance you never need to worry again! Enlarge Defeat the bra enemy in one easy motion. Always a nervous encounter for males around the globe, but with VideoJug's assistance you never need to worry again!

Step 1: You will need

  • A willing partner
  • Breasts that are encased in a bra
  • Dextrous fingers
  • Nerves of steel
  • A spirit of adventure.

Step 2: Know your enemy

The bra is your enemy. It has got what you want.

To defeat this enemy you must do some intelligence gathering. Make sure your hands are warm, cold hands are not sexy. Put your hand under her top. If she is uncomfortable with this, then chillaxe at first base.

If you get a positive response, and she's up for it, get an answer to this key question: is it a back-fastening bra, or a front-fastening bra?

Step 3: Why not just ask?

Here's why:
He says, "Um, excuse me, can you tell me if this is a front fastening or back fastening bra? And can you please assist me in removing it?"

Step 4: Back-fastenings

First see if the bra fastens at the back. Move your hand across her back, and locate her bra strap. Now feel for an 3-5 cm long section of thicker fabric in the centre of the bra strap, or perhaps a tiny gap where the fastenings meet.
Don't think, feel.... Bingo! It's a back fastener. Easy! Now you know what you are dealing with.

Step 5: Front-fastenings

It isn't a back fastener? We are probably dealing with a front fastener. These unclip between the cups at the front of the bra.

Step 6: Other types of bra?

If you can't find the fastening at front or back, consider the rare possibility that she is wearing an aerobic bra, or that she isn't wearing a bra at all. All right!

Step 7: The pinch and release

This will take practice, so it's a good idea to practice on a close friend before the date. Whether back or front fastening, most bras clip and unclip with tiny hooks. The one handed release technique is the same for both front and back fastenings. You need to gently clench the material around both sides of the fastening, and then squeeze them together so that the hooks release. Congratulations - you can now try to unhook a bra on a real woman.

How to change a flat tire

This is guy 101, don't look like a tool when you have a blow out, waiting 2 hrs for AAA is just not a man's style. Roll up your sleeves and get to work Jack.

How To Change a Flat Tire

Until the day comes when we are all piloting flying cars (and trust me, the day will come), our cars are stuck with these rubber things called tires. They roll nice and all, but they have a rather nasty problem of sometimes losing air. And without air, they become deflated and virtually useless.
Changing a flat tire is not a very pleasant experience. It seems like your car purposely tries to get a flat tire at the least opportune moments. Like when you are rushing home from work to catch your favorite episode of "Happy Days," for instance. You know, the one where Fonzie rides the killer bull while on vacation in Colorado.
Now, there are some of you who might be lucky and own a car with run-flat tires or a low tire-pressure warning system. If that is the case, you might be able to avoid the icky process. But even if you are a hapless soul, changing a tire doesn't have to be all bad. With knowledge comes power. If you are unsure how to change a tire properly, and you want to know, read on.
OK, so you are driving along and all of the sudden you hear a loud bang and the telltale thumping noise of a dead tire. You carefully pull off to the shoulder of the road. Checking to make sure no other motorists are going to run you over, you exit your vehicle and inspect the car. Sure enough, your car's left front tire is completely flat. You are not going to be able to keep driving, so you are going to have to remove it and install your car's spare tire in its place.

Jack up the Car
The first step is to find your car's spare tire, jack and tire iron. The spare tire is almost always located underneath the floor mat in the trunk. Unless, of course, your car doesn't have a trunk. If you own an SUV, minivan or pickup, the spare tire is often mounted on the back of the tailgate or underneath the vehicle itself.
Once you have found the spare tire, remove it from the car. If you have an air pressure gauge handy, you will want to check the spare tire's pressure. If this tire is flat, too, you're in a bit of trouble. But let's just assume you have been keeping tabs on the spare tire's health, and its air pressure is perfect.
The next step will involve removing the flat tire. Make sure that the car is in gear (or in "park" if the car is an automatic) and the emergency brake is set. The car should be parked on a flat piece of pavement. Do not attempt to change a flat if the car is on a slope or if it is sitting on dirt. It's also a good idea to block the tire opposite of the flat tire. Therefore, if the left front tire is flat, it would be a good idea to place a brick or other large, heavy object behind the right rear tire. (Your cousin Fred might also be large and heavy, but it's not a good idea to use him to block the tire). Blocking the tire makes the car less likely to move when you are raising it.
Use the tire iron (the L-shaped bar that fits over the wheel lugs) to loosen each wheel lug. The wheel lugs are almost certainly very tight. You'll have to use brute force. Just think about how Mr. T from the "A-Team" would do it and try to be like him. Say to yourself, "Hannibal, I piddy da fool who can't break loose wheel lugs." You'll have those babies loose in no time. You loosen them by turning them counterclockwise, by the way.
Now, at this point, you don't want to actually remove the lugs. You just want them loose. Once you have accomplished this, move the jack underneath the car. If you don't know where the proper jacking points are, look them up in the owner's manual (you keep your owner's manual in your car, right?).
Maneuver the jack underneath the jack point and start to raise the jack. Most car jacks these days are a screw-type scissor jack, which means you simply turn the knob at the end of the jack using the provided metal hand crank. Raise the jack until it contacts the car's frame and continue expanding the jack.

Remove the Flat and Install the Spare
Raise the car with the jack until the flat tire is completely raised off the ground. Once this is done, remove the wheel lugs completely. Depending on how tight the lugs are you might be able to remove them by hand. Set the lugs aside in a secure location where they can't roll away.
Position the spare tire over the wheel studs. This is the most physically challenging part of the whole process. You'll have to hold up the tire and try to line up the holes in the wheel with the protruding wheel studs located on the brake hub. One trick that might help is to balance the tire on your foot while you move it into position.
After you have the spare tire hanging on the wheel studs, screw each of the wheel lugs back on. You'll want to start them by hand. Make sure you do not cross-thread them. The lugs should screw on easily. Once each of them is snug and you can't tighten them any further by hand, use the tire iron to finish the job. At this point, you don't need to get the lugs super tight. You just want them snug for now. Make sure that the wheel is fitting flush against the brake hub.
Once the spare tire is on, carefully lower the jack. Pull the jack away from the vehicle. The final step is to tighten down the lugs completely. The reason you tighten the lugs now is that the tire is on the ground and it won't rotate around like it would if it was still hanging in the air.
Wheel lugs have a specific torque rating that they are supposed to be tightened down to, but there is pretty much no way you can figure that out using a simple tire iron. The general rule here is to tighten down the lugs as much as possible. Again, think Mr. T. "I ain't flying on no plane with loose wheel lugs, Hannibal!"
That's it. Put the flat tire in the space where the spare tire was and put the jack and tire iron back in the car. Most compact spare tires are smaller than regular tires (they look dinky and people commonly refer to them as "rubber doughnuts"), so it is possible that the flat tire won't fit in the spare tire well. Also, compact spares have a limited top speed. The tire's top speed will be written on its sidewall. If your vehicle has a full-size spare, you won't encounter these problems. With the spare installed, you should be able to reach your house or the nearest service station.


How to throw a punch...

How to Throw a Punch Correctly

How to Throw a Punch Correctly

If you're lucky, you'll never have to defend yourself through physical violence. But if that time ever comes, or if you're ever enrolled in a Fight Club against your will, would you know what to do? You've seen punches thrown on TV plenty of times, but do you actually know how to throw one correctly?
Warning: Although knowing the fundamentals of punching is useful, it's also not enough to properly defend yourself without practicing. It's definitely not for you to go out and pick fights, but you all should be smart enough to figure this out on your own.
We've asked a few experts to help us learn the proper method of punching. We have martial artists Aiman Farooq, Christopher Waguespack, Keith Horan, and boxer Pete Carvill. Our pros will show you the right way of making a fist, the proper way of orienting your wrist, what part of the person you should hit and what you should do after the punch. The goal is to throw an effective punch without injuring yourself in the process.
How to Throw a Punch Correctly

How should my hand look and what part of it should make contact?

When you're punching, the fundamental thing you should know is that your thumb needs to be on the outside of your fist, between your first and second knuckles on your index and middle finger. "If the thumb is on the inside upon hitting a hard target you WILL break your thumb," says Farooq. Horan says to make sure your thumb is tucked below your curled fingers, to be out of the way of the impact. Chris Waguespack adds:
You do NOT want to keep your thumb on the side of your index finger (like you're keeping a frog or something in your hand). Instead you want to take your thumb and wrap it down across the bottom of your curled fingers. You also want to keep your fists tight, "but not so tight that you start cutting off circulation. It is important, in martial arts, to remain fluid and yet still powerful."
As for your knuckles:
There are varying schools of thought on whether you should have the knuckles of your index and middle finger out a little farther when punching in order to drive them in farther (this is typically emphasized in more traditional styles). I would say this is more of a personal preference issue and you should do whichever feels more natural. Technically speaking though that may work slightly better when punching specifically at certain pressure points as opposed to going for strictly for impact.
Horan recommends a linear punch, which most martial artists do, that looks like a "cross" punch in boxing.
[It's] known as a Front Punch, or a Front Two Knuckle Punch. It is extremely important that you align the first two knuckles in your hand with the bones in your forearm for maximum structure so you don't hurt yourself. Commonly people will hit with their ring/pinky knuckles and break their hand (known as a boxer's break) and that obviously impedes your ability to fight.
Waguespack says that the main reason why people hurt their hands when they punch someone is "because they punch with the flats of their fingers instead of their knuckles."
When you see people shaking their hands after a punch, it is usually because they impacted, more often than not, with the wrong part of their hand. Many people think that you punch with your fist straight. The truth is, you aim to punch with the first two knuckles. In order to achieve this, you need to slightly tilt your wrist down (which actually strengthens your punch as well). By tilting your wrist down slightly, you put your knuckles in front of your fingers. You also align your wrist with your forearm, so you are less likely to bend your wrist back or down and break it.
Farooq agrees that you should pay attention to how your wrists look as well.
The part of the fist that should be taking the impact is the flat area between the second and third knuckles. You want to keep your wrist straight while making impact there to maximize the force. The most common mistake I see with newer students is that they are bending their wrists either forwards or backwards and hitting with the top of the hand or the area between the first and second knuckles and the heel of the palm.

What types of punches should I throw?

If you've seen any boxing movies or played any type of fighting game, you'll know there are different types of punches thrown with varying speeds and angles. You might be tempted to throw the largest, heaviest punch you can, because you want to finish off your attacker quickly and get out of there, but Carvill says that's not the best idea. (It's probably the worst idea.)
Instead, it should be the basic one-two (also known as the jab-cross) that gets thrown. The reason for this is that one-two punches travel in a straight line and, therefore, are harder for your opponent to detect. For a beginner, your defense will also be tighter. And it should be thrown from the correct stance—a good example is the video above. You should throw any punches so that your arms stay level with your shoulders. If you have your chin down and the punch comes out straight, the shoulder will rise automatically and further protect your chin. Throw out the jab but don't throw it too hard—it's a range-finder. Then detonate your cross.

Where should I aim?

Because you want the fight to end as quickly as possible—you're not fighting just to fight—you want to incapacitate your opponent as quickly and efficiently as possible so you can escape. So where should you aim to do so?
Keith Horan says that, unlike what you might think, you should not punch the face. "You'll either miss, or commonly punch wrong and hit the jaw and break your hand. The punch for the beginner is best used on the body, towards the chest, or if you're on the side, to the ribs."
Pete Carvill suggests a slightly different tactic, but also advises against the head.
If you want to knock someone out cold, aim for the throat. When they see the punch coming, they'll automatically drop their head, bringing their chin in line with your fist. If you want to piss them off, hit them in the nose. However, knocking people out cold in the street (been there and done that, and I've never been as scared before or since) is a terrifying experience for the person throwing the punch. If you know how to and can, throw a left or right-hook to the body. With the left-hook, you're trying to hit the liver. With the right, you want to get it under the heart. Hitting somebody in the body is a lot more effective, and safer, than hitting them in the head. Plus, heads are solid and made of bone.
Waguespack explains further why you should mix it up and go for body shots.
People always think that aiming for the face is a one time knock out blow. What they fail to realize is that, knock outs are usually lucky shots. You don't throw a punch and intend to knock the man out. If it happens, then great, but you got lucky. You throw a punch with the intent to cause your opponent to stumble/shake his head/blind him/etc., so on the street in a fight, keep your composure and remember that you are causing him pain in order to make him back down. Look at what he has open, take pot shots at his face, don't be afraid to punch a rib or a stomach. Remember that an untrained opponent knows nothing about breathing right when taking a hit, so one shot to the stomach could be more effective than a shot to the face.
As for your followthrough, don't think of it as a baseball pitcher. By using your hips, your follow through will be natural, even if you snap the punch back after punching him (like a boxer). This will also keep you from the "from the country" swings again.
Aiman Farooq, on the other hand, says that there are instances where you can go for the head, or more specifically, the nose.
When we are talking just an average fight you're going to want to aim for the face, however don't go straight on directly in. You want to come in at a slight angle where you are actually hitting the cheek bones first and moving in towards the nose or similarly from just above the jawbone moving inwards. The reason for this is that punching straight into the nose can be quite painful if you hit it incorrectly. This method maximizes damage and minimizes risk.
In more brutal situations (i.e. self defense) areas I would recommend hitting are the throat and the sides of the neck (close to the carotid artery). These strikes will severely disrupt the assailants breathing allowing for a much easier escape from a situation. If the situation somehow prevents you from hitting that high on a person points of contact I would recommend are the sternum (using the two knuckles extended like I had mentioned earlier to drive in) this is a style of punching very common in forms of Karate, it can knock the wind out of a person. However another point that would be very helpful is the kidneys. Hitting the kidneys can cause severe flinching and is very common in boxing.
If for some reason you find yourself knocked to the ground, the best point to strike would be the middle of the inner or outer thigh. While it may not be as vulnerable to a punch as many of the other previously outlined points the pressure points here are very sensitive and hit hard enough they can be very surprising to an opponent and cause them to drop. The typical attack to these parts however, is a kick.

What shouldn't I do?

If it hasn't been clear by now, your punches should be quick and compact, rather than crazy wild swings that you see drunken brawlers execute. Waguespack says:
Another important part about a punch, is to remember that you need to use your hips to maximize the power. What i mean by this is, as you go to throw your punch, roll your hips into your punch. This also forces your shoulder to support the punch, as well as engaging your core and causing more torque and power through the punch. Rolling your hips, also causes you to stray from the "from the country" swing that you see so many people do. This is a BIG no-no to throwing a punch. A) it's obvious B) it's wild C) it leaves you WIDE open if your opponent is faster and D) it's just not very effective.

Before and after the punch

The most important part of throwing any punch: You've gotta yell. There's a reason karate guys yell: It's ferocious, gets the adrenaline pumping, and awakens that animalistic nature in us that will drive us to overcome our fears of the fight. So yell and punch, and don't stop punching until they're on the ground. But don't follow them there, leave it at that and get out.
As for after the punch, Carvill's tip helps you have the proper followthrough. "Wherever you punch, aim for two inches beyond so you're punching through it." Farooq expands on this.
Followthrough is VERY important. Followthrough is actually, contrary to what one might believe, what will minimize the pain you experience when throwing a punch. The punch should follow a straight path in towards the target and out away from the target This is not to say that the punch should be slow, but there should be a full extension of your arm which allows for follow through followed by the hand coming back straight towards your face ready for blocking.
He also says that the stuff you do before you throw a punch is equally important.
Another key to punching is how the punch is prepared. Think of any fights you've seen. Compare a boxing match to a drunken brawl. The key difference in the punches is the part before the punch. Boxing has mastered the art of the effective and efficient punch. Typical untrained people will bring their hands as far back as possible in order to "wind up" their punches. This is extremely counter productive as it will actually lower the power of your punch and make it extremely telegraphed. You want to start your punches from right by your face and keep your motions tight. The way to maximize power is to engage the full body though and this is done by twisting your back foot and hips in to the punch. With a power punch (typically a right cross) you'll pivot your right foot up to the ball of your foot as you extend the punch outwards and twist your hips as well, this allows you to push up from the floor and use that towards the power of your punch. Similarly with a jab (more of a speedy punch off of the front hand) you can do a lighter twist with your front leg in order to get a little more power.
While this is less related to the actual punch itself and more of a general fighting tip, it is VERY important to keep your hands up by your face, basically bringing the top of your knuckles to just below your eye level. When punching you want to punch from there and snap the hands straight back to there after the punch.

The philosophy of punching

I want to emphasize that even though you may know how to punch, it doesn't mean that you should, because once you do, things are out of your control. Pete Carvill explains:
The most important thing about punching is that it should be the LAST thing that you do. If you can walk away from a fight, do so. If you are being mugged and they just want your possessions, let them take them. There's no sense in trying to be a hero or thinking you can take on the world. When a punch is thrown, the game changes—you could get a beatdown, or worse. You could even land a punch on someone and kill them if they fall badly or there's something wrong with them (I know of two separate incidents in which people were hit once and lost their lives, and it's not worth it).
And when you've thrown your punch and your opponent is either down or recovering,
Run. Outside the gym, I've only ever had one street fight where punches have been thrown. I was seven years old and was stopping this bully from pushing another seven-year old around (it was a girl as well). I pushed him away from her, he attacked me and I knocked him on his backside with one punch. I then ran like hell. Unless you want or have to stay there, there's no point in sticking around.


But what if you just want to look like you know how to throw a punch, say, if you're filming a new fan-made Street Fighter series for YouTube? Jenn Zuko Boughn, stage combat instructor, shows us exactly how to do that.
For a real punch, the alignment not only is necessary for efficiency, but also so that the punch-er doesn't get just as hurt (or more so) than the punch-ee.
We stage combatants are in the business of effective illusion, however, and as such don't want to land our punches on anything solid. As a teacher of a teacher of mine once said, "Air don't bleed" (1). Now we are not throwing "real" punches on stage or film, true, but it has to be an accurate illusion. As I always say to my stage combat students: we want to be safe first, but we also want to look awesome. A fake-looking punch is not awesome-looking, so I do think it is important for stunt fighters to know what it's like to land a punch, so they know what it feels like and can thenceforth act it well. This, however, is where martial artists who begin stage combat come into issues. What they do in stunt fighting feels fake to them. Sometimes, they'd rather "just spar," which is the worst thing you could do on film or onstage, for several reasons (2).
The main point, though: stage combatants want to a) be safe, i.e. never land a punch on their partner, and b) look as though they really have landed a punch on their partner.
How to Throw a Punch CorrectlyThis punch looks like your basic clock across the face. It can be as big as a haymaker, or as small as a close-in-looking rap across the cheek. The illusion we're creating for an audience is that of one pretty powerful punch sideways across the face. Since our actors' faces are often their resumes, however, we don't really want to do this (even to a stunt double). So here's what we do instead. First, the actors measure their distance from each other to make sure the attacker's extended fist is at least 4 inches away from touching the victim's face. Then:
Attacker: Wind up arm: forearm parallel to floor
Victim: Place hands for sound effect
Attacker: Pivot hips, push fist in a straight line in the air
Victim: React with face sideways, sound effect
Attacker: Drift fist down towards floor
Victim: Act the pain
Obviously, in film the sound effect isn't done by the actor, it's done by the post-production crew. But the main idea is that the actors' fist and face end up nearly a foot apart, though because of the flattening of perspective of an audience member's perception (or a camera's eye), it looks as though the actors are much closer and the punch hits home.
Another note: this punch looks good when either of the actors' backs is facing the audience. From the side, the space between the actors is clearly visible. So cameras must be placed strategically, and a proscenium stage is best for this type of punch. The victim's "selling" of the reaction is the key to maintaining this illusion.
Funny/sad stage combat story: This involved a stage slap, not a punch, but it's a similar idea.
I was part of the Chorus in a musical a while back (I won't name names or I may insult someone). The director knew I had stage combat experience, so he asked me to show a safe stage slap to the actor and actress playing the leads, who needed to execute said slap as a climax of the play. So I did. They tried it twice, maybe three times, then the actor (who was the recipient of the slap) decided he'd rather really be slapped, as it "felt more authentic." I of course urged him to reconsider: with enough practice, it looks quite real and you are a great actor, I'm sure you can…no? Okay. I washed my hands of the affair and let him let himself get slapped four nights a week for the next month.
Of course, you can imagine what happened: one night, the adrenaline was especially high, or the angle was off, or well, something. All kinds of odd little nuances happen onstage; when there's a hand smacking a cheek, even more so. Anyway, the actor got smacked pretty hard that night. He came backstage between scenes, red-faced, discombobulated, hurt, and annoyed. I didn't say "I told you so" (though I thought it). I'm just glad he wasn't worse hurt than he was (4).
1) Dale Girard, author of Actors on Guard, said this often as he taught/directed.
2) Real punches just don't read to an audience: they're not clear, they're not easy to trace with the eye, they're fast. A stage punch is really super-big, and the actor must indicate hugely. This is something no martial artist in his right mind would do. Stage Combat is about telling a story, not about fighting. Also, though we enjoy watching Jackie Chan hurt himself in out-takes, or hearing about the escapades of stuntpeople, getting hurt on the job is not anything anyone wants. Getting hit in the face is not an easy thing to take once, certainly not over and over, no matter how tough one is.
3) Along with this punch (often called the "straight punch"), there is the jab (which is the illusion of a straight jab to the nose), the cross-punch, the snake punch, the uppercut, and all kinds of variations when ground-fighting. You can see some interesting behind-the-scenes punches in the extras of Fight Club, as well as the student-run videos on the MSCD stage combat YouTube channel.
4) The first chapter of my Stage Combat book relates an "Unlucky Thirteen" bad things that can happen to a face when it's been slapped for real.